Where Madrid still eats

Eat where the menu is short and the bread is for the table, not for Instagram. Madrid has a market or a mercadillo — go in the morning.

A capital. Walk the centre, then get out of Sol before you decide you hate it.

Lunch at 2, not at 12. If a waiter speaks five languages before hello, you are in the other restaurant. Both can be fine. Know which one you sat down in.

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